Archive for October, 2010

Energized and inspired at the Adventure Travel World Summit in Aveimore Scotland

Wednesday, October 20th, 2010

Scotland Mountain High

Having  returned from the annual  Adventure Travel World Summit in Aveimore Scotland, I am once again energized, inspired and proud to be a part of one of the fastest-growing and most successful travel sectors—Adventure Travel. Adventure travel companies, like fellow members of Trusted Adventures, have placed the bar very high when it comes to “the guest experience.” Since we are launching a NEW bicycle tour in Scotland, I was excited to taste as much of this wonderful country as nine days (and lots of meetings, lectures and networking) would allow. As usual, I packed a full schedule!

Highlights of the nine days included a walk up to Arthur’s seat, a bike tour around Edinburgh with Andy of  Story Bikes, learning the intricacies of Single Malt Scotch at the ” Scotch Malt Whisky Society with my  Trusted Adventure colleagues, paddled with an expert kayaker/ tour operator from Sweden, mountain biked through lavender fields and at every meal was blown away by a different country’s presentation of their unique destination.

On my first afternoon in Edinburgh I rented a bike and did what I do best: EXPLORE. I checked out the city's bike map and sought out the highlighted bike path. I found this lovely path along a canal overflowing with cyclists, walkers and scullers.

Late afternoon shadows at the end of a 2 hours of exploring Edinburg by bicycle

Childrens' art was mounted on a wall along the canal near the center of Edinburg

Andy of Story Bike Tours stops in a park across from the childhood home of Robert Louis Stevenson. The lush park complete with pond with an small island is said to have been the inspiration for Treasure Island

On tour a Story Bike Tour, we around the city and ended at the base of the Edinburgh Castle

The Trusted Adventure leaders gather in Edinburg for our pre-summit meeting which included a hike to Arthur's Seat. Recognized worldwide for uncompromising quality, exceptional guest care and sustainable travel ethics, the Trusted Adventures alliance is a partnership of eight distinguished, award-winning, and independently operated companies; Austin-Lehman Adventures, Wildland Adventures, Western River Expeditions, Myths and Mountains, The Wayfarers, ROW Adventures, Great Alaska International Adventure Vacations, American Safari Cruises and Ciclismo Classico

Our Trusted Adventure guide took us on a behind the scenes walk which included the Edinburgh Cemetary where economist is buried.

On our drive up to Aveimore, we stop at the Birnam Oak, a tree dating back to Medieval times and made famous in Macbeth

On our summit "Day of Adventure" I walked, canoed and Mt biked with a group of over 30 adventure specialists from around the world.

As expected, the Scottish tourist board won points for authenticity in their live performance of the Address to a Haggis by Robert Burns. The haggis is a traditional Scottish dish traditionally served with “neeps and tatties” (turnips and potatoes) and “dram” (a glass of whisky).


How lucky am I?  Not only did I travel to a spectacular country but I was fortunate to have the opportunity to learn the latest trends in travel, explore exciting new destinations via multi-media demonstrations and mingle with adventure travel “movers and shakers” from around the word. Enjoy some favorite moments from Scotland from Flickr:

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Over 500 adventure delegates from all over the world took this year’s theme, “Share and Inspire” to heart. Whether it was  Costas Christ, Editor At Large for National Geographic Traveler
sharing his vision of the future of adventure travel or  Dr. Wallace Nichols from the California Academy of Sciences whose life long love of turtles and the sea led him to passionately promote his r/evolution that is helping save the planet and is making a difference— the message rang loud and clear: as leaders in adventure travel interacting with literally millions of travelers annually, we are making a difference in the way people are experiencing the world’s most precious resources.

Brainchilds and passionate founders of the Adventure Travel and Trade Associate raise the "authenticity" bar on Scotland evening and they are looking good in the traditional Scottish attire

On our "Night out in the Park" we had dinner on a historic train. Adventurous conversations flowed with Judy Alpress of The Wayfayers and Judy Carvahal of Enchanted Expeditions (Specialists in Ecuador expeditions)

Adventure travel companies (and their guests and stakeholders) have an important role to play. We represent millions and millions of customers worldwide as a group.  Bicycle tour companies, eco-lodges, adventure operators, outfitters, safari companies, rafting companies, diving companies, walking tours, the list goes on endlessly. But we know instinctively that as a group we do impact millions of travelers and nearly every region on the planet with what we do.

We embrace the vision of the Adventure Travel Trade Association is very clear:  Ciclismo Classico is proud to be a part of a thriving community of responsible, profitable businesses, destinations and media who transform customers and businesses alike into advocates for sustainability and justice worldwide.

Nicky Fitzgerald summed up what she hopes adventure leaders will strive for as they host travelers on their tours into one word. This one word from her South African homeland—Ubuntu is actually an ethical concept.  Ubuntu, the essence of being human, refers to how we rely on others for our sense of self, how we are all interdependent and need to work together for our emotional and material health and wealth.  Embracing Ubuntu reminds of us of our interconnectedness, certainly the most profound way that adventure travel can transform and change each of us.

The experience of “Ubuntu” on our Ciclismo Classico tours may explain why so many of our guests claim to have been transformed by their travel experience.

Interconnecting our guests with the landscape, the people and their surroundings is the Ciclismo Way of Life.

Thank you fellow Adventure Travel Friends for sharing views, ideas and best practices. See you in Mexico, hosts of the 2011 Adventure Travel Summit!

The Harmonica Man. Music keeps him Alive

Tuesday, October 5th, 2010

Here’s a story to inspire your day thanks to WIMP.http://www.wimp.com/

It’s a about Andy Mackie, the Harmonica man who at 70 years old is glad to be alive. He’s a Scottish born horse trainer who lives in a camper in NW Washington state even though technically he should not be alive. After his 9th heart surgery Andy’s doctors’ had him on 15 different medicines. The side affects made him miserable so he decided to quit taking all 15 and decide to spend his final days doing something he always wanted to do–teach music! He used the money he would have used on prescriptions to give away 300 harmonicas with lessons!  When he did not die, he bought a few more. 11 years and 13,000 harmonicas later he is still going strong. To keep the older kids interested in music he makes strum sticks and has them teach younger kids to teach the younger ones.  He teaches the kids, if you have a gift you give it away and you get to keep it forever. He believes that teaching music has literally kept him alive, he says ” I can’t explain the joy I feel. I don’t think Bill Gates feels any richer inside than I do.” Share your passion. Make the world a better place.

The Harmonica Man. Music keeps him Alive

Tuesday, October 5th, 2010

Here’s a story to inspire your day thanks to WIMP.http://www.wimp.com/

It’s a about Andy Mackie, the Harmonica man who at 70 years old is glad to be alive. He’s a Scottish born horse trainer who lives in a camper in NW Washington state even though technically he should not be alive. After his 9th heart surgery Andy’s doctors’ had him on 15 different medicines. The side affects made him miserable so he decided to quit taking all 15 and decide to spend his final days doing something he always wanted to do–teach music! He used the money he would have used on prescriptions to give away 300 harmonicas with lessons!  When he did not die, he bought a few more. 11 years and 13,000 harmonicas later he is still going strong. To keep the older kids interested in music he makes strum sticks and has them teach younger kids to teach the younger ones.  He teaches the kids, if you have a gift you give it away and you get to keep it forever. He believes that teaching music has literally kept him alive, he says ” I can’t explain the joy I feel. I don’t think Bill Gates feels any richer inside than I do.” Share your passion. Make the world a better place.

Thank You Pan Mass Challenge Sponsors!

Tuesday, October 5th, 2010
The Reasons we Ride
Mom (1933-2004) You are on Every Ride!

Thank You PMC sponsors!

Another wonderful summer, my 19th Pan Mass Challenge and feeling so blessed and thankful for your support. My grand total thus far is over ,500 making me a heavy hitter for the second year in a row! My individual thank you letters are going out to each of my sponsors but I also wanted to thank my 60 sponsors collectively to show that it takes a small village multiplied times thousands to make a dent in the fight against cancer.  In honor of my mother, Valia Orazietti Hefferon who died 6 years ago this September, four-year old Avallana, Susan Herman and all of you who have been touched by cancer in any way,  I and the PMC are deeply grateful for your generosity. I recently learned that my dear friend, dedicated PMC rider  and Ciclismo alumni Lily Gaeve was diagnosed with lung cancer.  Due to her cancer treatments she was unable to ride this year or dance her heart out on the grand finale of the PMC, the Provincetown to Boston ferry.  Rather than ride with her on the road, I will see her in between treatments at the Zakim Center for Integrative Therapies.

GO LILY!

Here is Avallana, a sweet 4 year old girl who has fought cancer most of her life and who has tragically developed a new tumor. Her parents must, once again go down the path of radiation and surgery for their only daughter. Avallana has inspired my family and I and kept me riding hard and strong. She and so many others are the  one BIG reason why, no matter where I am, will ride the PMC for life!

Avallana

Please click on this link to the PMC Opening Ceremonies. I encourage you to take the time to watch- the words of several survivors says it all. Also enjoy an excerpt from the PMC blog

“The 31st annual Pan-Massachusetts Challenge was an incredible success for the 5,100 cyclists who rode, the 3,000 volunteers whose work made everything run smoothly, and for the tens of thousands of cancer patients around the globe who will benefit from the millions of dollars raised for research and treatment. On August 7 and 8, cyclists from 34 states and six countries rode one of ten routes ranging from 47 to 190 miles. Their goal was to raise million for cancer research and treatment at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute through its Jimmy Fund and bring the PMC’s 31-year Jimmy Fund contribution to 1 million.  On November 12, the PMC will present its 2010 contribution to Dana-Farber. Fundraising dollars continue to come in and we are optimistic about exceeding the million goal set last winter,” said PMC Founder and Executive Director Billy Starr. “The PMC brings out the best in everyone. When you multiply all that’s good about humanity by 10,000 people, the results can’t help but be positive.

No other single athletic event raises or contributes more money to charity than the PMC. Since 1980, the PMC has raised 0 million for cancer research and care at Dana-Farber through its Jimmy Fund. The PMC gives 100 percent of every rider-raised dollar directly to the Jimmy Fund, a rate of fundraising that is nearly unequaled within the billion athletic fundraising event industry. The PMC generates more than 50 percent of the Jimmy Fund’s annual revenue and is its largest single contributor.”

It is not too late to donate and help me reach my 10K GOAL
simply click here: http://www.pmc.org/egifts/ My gift ID is: LH0006

Thank you! Thank you!  Thank you!

Too many reasons to ride
Pedal Partners Inspire
This cancer survivor’s annual sign says it all.

Biking in Barcelona: One of the World’s Great Cycling Cities

Tuesday, October 5th, 2010
Our family at Parco Della Cittadella
The Bicing Resident Bike rental service

For the second year in a row, my family has opted to use bicycles to get around the European cities we visit (and I have chosen to visit cities that are bikeable.  Last year we launched our European city biking explorations with a Bike with Mike tour through Copenhagen. Since then I have no problem selling them on this concept. It’s simply the best way to see a city in short amount of time.  This year the grand finale to our 6 week European 4 country tour was a week in Barcelona with our dear friends Verne and Julie Harnish. Thanks to their wonderful hospitality we were able to combine a visit with their fun family with daily bike rides to visit Barcelona’s rich collection of diverse art, architecture and street life!

This summer, after our bicycle tour of Norway and Ireland, we bike toured around Lucca for a day and had our grand finale in Barcelona which is ranked as one of the top eleven cities in the world for bicycling. In 2007, Barcelona’s City Council started the Bicing service, a bicycle service for public transport. Once the user has their card, they can take a bicycle from any of the 100 stations spread around the city and use it anywhere the urban area of the city, and then leave it at another station. Barcelona City Council is working day and night to expand, rationalize and improve the network of routes and cycle paths in the city. The city has created a ‘green ring’ that surrounds the metropolitan area of Barcelona with a bike path. There are currently 3,250 parking spaces for bikes at street level. Barcelona City Council is constructing a new underground car park for bicycles; this forms part of a pilot program to prevent theft and provide security for bicycle users. Although this service is for residents, there are many options for tourists wishing to visit Barcelona by bike.

La Sagrada Famiglia by bike
Stopping in Plazas

Before embarking on our own with rentals, we always start with an organized tour, not only as a way to best experience the city but as a way to get a lay of the land and to understand the road and path system. After one day of trudging through subways and along hot crowded streets, my kids were excited to get bikes. Although there are several companies that offer tours, my Internet research led me to Barcelona Ciclo Tour. I liked the virtual tour that they showed online and that they were conveniently located near Plaza Catalunya.

La Rambla del Raval
La Playa

We  got our heavy duty 3 speed bikes and embarked on our three hour tour which traveled along bike paths, narrow streets, a bit of sidewalk and on the main roads to stop and connect to the city’s major sites such as:  Rambla del Raval, Plaça Reial, Plaça Sant Jaume, Barcelona City Hall, Plaça Sant Felip Neri, Cathedral, Roman walls, Plaça del Rei, beaches, Port Vell, the Barceloneta district, Olympic Marina, Olympic Village, Ciutadella Park, Sagrada Família, Passeig de Gracia, Casa Batlló, Casa Milà, Plaça Catalunya and a stop at the beach for a drink.

Our Brit guide Tullis was excellent and was very careful to ensure that we were good bicycling diplomats. We followed the path system as much as possible but occasionally dismounted to get through tricky areas. He kept us in line yet was easy going, friendly, safe and very educational. Like most cities, the weak link in the bike path system is where the paths connect. Sidewalks, large piazzas, piazzas and wide shoulders fill in the gaps. This Barcelona Ciclo Tour is completely family friendly for kids from 7-18.

The official bike path system is not integrated with all the city’s transport as it does in Copenhagen. The bike paths encircle and occasionally cut through the main part of the city. There is a great flow of people and bikes and a great tolerance for the mingling of both. You can take your bike on any subway as well.

This link will take you to Map My Ride route of the many roads and bike lanes we took  

Street Art everywhere
The Gothic Section
Arch di Trionph

All of the key sites of the city can be easily visited by bike. The city is fairly flat so the cycling is easy. There are a few site on hills such as Park Guell and Montjuic that are a challenge to climb with heavy three speed bikes.  My favorite part of the city for cycling was along La Playa and through the narrow streets of La Barcelonetta. We flowed with the completely relaxed pace, the breeze, the views of the coast and the car void scene packed with bikers, roller bladers, walkers, joggers, skate boarder and scooters.

Biking along La Playa…Bella
Biking along La Playa
Groups of cyclists on La Playa

Although there are no official bike maps, the city is laid out on a grid plan with large boulevards dividing the grid diagonally and parallel in every direction. Most of the city maps available are big, hard to read, fly in the wind when you open and tear easily so I do recommend buying a plasticized map that can be folded out in sections and that shows all street directions.

The biggest challenges about biking the city are the excessive traffic lights (one every block) and that there is no great bike path map so unless you know where the best biking streets are, it can be hard to connect one path to the next or find the more quiet streets. My strategy was to follow the small streets, parallel to the busier ones. The traffic lights every block are the only real drag since you are constantly stopping and starting which makes a short ride go on forever and constantly puts you behind cars

Since our hosts lived outside the old city, we rode the “Diagonal “back and forth one a day. The Diagonal is this huge boulevard that cuts the city in half. All along each side of the Diagonal, Barcelona’s chic shopping district, there is a vast array of architecture making this an interesting ride. Aside from the constant stop lights and buzzing cars, we really enjoyed riding the Diagonale bike path. Located on each side of the busy thoroughfare and sometimes in the middle, this well paved, signed and signaled bike path made for a wonderfully pleasant ride. The gentle grade uphill made our return to the center that much more fun and fast! Many of the large boulevards have either bike paths of linear parks. In the USA developers might balk at putting a bike paths along such a busy road but here in Barcelona, it works and hopefully can provide inspiration for making our USA cities more bike friendly.

Biking along La Diagnonal, a wide bike and foot path
Linear Parks for cyclists and walkers
Aside from the bike paths, narrow quiet streets and large boulevards, Barcelona is filled with huge public spaces where cyclists can ride. We rode through many piazza’s and large public spaces. 
Plaza di Espanya
Plazas with sculptures along La Playa
Some additional info about bicycling in Barcelona
There are plenty of place to rent bikes and/or take a tour. The quality of the bike vary but I found that most use three speed, heavy bikes which are not conducive to tackling longer hillier routes (Parc Guell) but are fine for riding the flat city. Make sure to check out your bike to make sure it shifts well, tires are inflated and brakes work.  Not all rentals places provide helmets (and hardly anyone in Barcelona wears one). You can google bike rentals or bike tours or check out any of the following
Bike tours
www.FatTireBikeTours.com/Barcelona
http://www.barcelonabiking.com
Barcelona by Bicycle  http://www.bicicletabarcelona.com/empresa/rutas_bicicleta_barcelona
Ciclo Bike Tours http://www.barcelonaciclotour.com/eng/ : This is the company we used. Their bikes are heavier city bikes
Barcelona by Bike
http://www.barcelonabybike.com/our-bikes-tours-barcelona.html
Biking in Barcelona. This is located near the Museum Maritim which is easier to access and leave by bike. They have more bikes for kids and tandems too
http://www.bikinginbarcelona.net/english/rent-a-tandem-in-barcelona

Bike Rentals
http://www.bikerentalbarcelona.com/
www.mattia46.com  Cheap bike rentals 6 euro per day
http://www.webaAdd enclosure linkrcelona.net/alquiler/bicicletas_en.asp
History and culture links to Barcelona:

Iberia Nature. A nice site with less typical, yet well written information about Barcelona’s nature, art and culture

General web site on Barcelona

Our Ciclo Tour bike guides
Theft: We put our backpack down for one minute in a touristy section of the city and it was nabbed. We also had a pick pocket attempt. Keep your valuables attached to your body and never leave your bikes anywhere unlocked. The bike rentals included a lock. We went into museums for a couple hours and left the bikes locked. 
Best time of year/ day to visit Barcelona by bike
August is when most of the residents clear out and go on vacation so if you want to experience the city with less traffic, I recommend August. August is hot but no hotter than Italy or Boston for that matter. We found temperatures to vary from 70-90.  On Sunday most of the stores are closed so this is a great day to experience the city with the least amount of traffic
BUENAS VIAJES! 
View from Il Museo Di Arte di Catalunya overlooking Piazza Espanya and the Fountain of Miracles


9 Days Pedaling in the West of Ireland: Doolin, Connemara and Mayo

Tuesday, October 5th, 2010


From the Lofoten islands our family traveled to Western Ireland to bike for 10 days around the Burren and Connemara combining parts of our current Ciclismo Classico itinerary with a custom tour that I had led 14 years ago with my parents and 15 of our dear Ciclismo alumni. The region is as beautiful as I remember it and, despite heavy bikes and some wet weather, my kids really loved the Ireland and want to go back in 2011. I certainly do! Who wants to come? In case you don’t want to read all the details of our trip, here are some highlights of our experience and useful travel info:

    Highlights 
    Staying in spotless B&Bs and interacting with our hosts
    Irish Breakfasts & brown bread
    The warm, outgoing and friendly locals
    Pints of Smithwicks
    Abundant quiet roads and stunning coastal scenery
    Baaahhing at sheep, making friends with donkeys
    Enjoying smoke free pubs and excellent music nightly
    The Cliffs of Moher: Ireland’s nomination for the global online campaign to find the New 7 Wonders of Nature in 2011
    Doolin Pubs
    The rocks, geology and stunning scenery of The Burren (not the bar in Somerville, MA!)
    Music and crafty shops
    Ferry Rides
    The Aran Islands
    Rock Walls, Shipwrecked Plassy
    Reunion with June Boulger and family, CC guide from 1995
    The Sky Road near Clifden
    Ride along Killary Harbor to Leenan
    2 nights @ Delphi Adventure Center
    Coasteering with Patrick
    Westport Grand Finale Ride
    Street performers in Galway

    Walking on Burren Cracks
    Stunning late afternoon riding


    The Plassy

    A few general Ireland Travel Suggestions:
    Summer cycling weather: Great temps for cycling. Never too hot and never rains for long.  We travelled between 30-50 KM per day. Wear layers and Keep your rain jacket and pants ready but the sun comes our regularly. Winds can kick up so make sure you are going in the right direction. Best to do Connemara clockwise. We did it counter clockwise and were hit with big winds


    Bikes. If you travel on your own, you can rent hybrids or road bikes in Galway. No odometers. Have to book in advance. Our bikes were heavy


    Cars and riding on the left: Most of the roads we travelled on were very quiet. You get used to riding on the left and best to ride single file when the roads get narrow


    Maps: None of the maps I used allowed me to easily count mileage. The ones with the best detail are the Discovery Ordinance Series #51, 45, 44 & 37


    Food: Eating out was relatively cheap and kid friendly. I loved the puree vegetable soup with brown bread and grilled seafood. Fresh veggies and fruit at meals is a bit harder to find. Supermarkets are in every small town for pick-nicking


    Biking with kids. Most of the roads in Connemara are rolling so it’s perfect cycling terrain. It’s hard for kids to get into the flow. Each one likes to stop whenever they need to so one of the big lessons was learning to eat, change clothes, go to the bathroom, etc at our designated stops. By the time we hit day 5 the kids were starting to get the routine. Be patient and remember the day is made up of all kinds of moments.

    Valentina in the lead on the coastal road in the Burren

    9  Glorious days in Connemara
    We landed in Dublin and connected to Galway where we strolled the lively streets, had our first pub lunch then picked up our bikes and were shuttled to the Doolin House B&B by Alan, the proprietor of Island Bikes who, having led many a tour here, had many ideas to share with us about our next few days


    Day Two: Doolin and the Cliffs of Moher
    Hungry and thirsty is a state of mind and body that is easily satisfied in Ireland.  We strolled down our narrow street where Luca and Valentina made friends with a donkey they named Nibbles. We made our way along the coastal road to O’Connors pub where we ordered the nightly special and waited until 9:30, where in every pub, a band of musicians was slated to play. Inside it was cozy with aromas of soup and fresh bread filling the dark rooms. The pub walls were coated with dollar bill, policeman patches, old photos and license plates from all over the states. We toasted our first Irish dinner with a couple of pints Smithwicks and three orange Fantas. Once the music started, Luca took a front row seat, while Lorenzo was entranced by the spoon playing. We could have stayed there all night but these cyclists need sleep to be ready for the Cliffs of Moher tomorrow.

    First Pub of the trip

    I enjoyed the early morning quiet of the light-filled sitting room and let the family sleep late. After our delicious home-made Irish breakfast made by our Doulinn House hostess Joan we gathered our rain layers and hopped on our bikes and headed uphill following signs to the Cliffs of Moher


    After lunch we headed for the cliffs which rise high above a freezing sea. They are simply spectacular but looking across the Cliffs I see people walking on the edge and can’t help but wonder how many people slip and fall into the freezing Atlantic. We walk along the trail, pose for pictures that distracts me from my fear of heights.

    We launched into “jumping” shot

    The ride back is mostly downhill and fast. It starts to rain. Lorenzo and I take a detour to the tiny music store where there is a huge collection of Irish music. Lorenzo and I spend over an hour there listening to CDs recommended by the the gent from Switzerland who runs the place. We head back and get ready for an evening at Fitz’s pub. More great food and music follows. W are on an Irish roll!


    Day Three: Rockin and Rollin in the Burren
    We wake to a morning of sunshine albeit the skies are filled with clouds that we know can turn on us at anytime. Today’s 50 KM ride is through the Burren, one of my favorite Ireland geographies. Due to some incomplete trip logistics, we begin our 8KM uphill ride to Lisdoonvarna. Luca is not happy about the wind or hills and we slug along. He begins screaming “ I hate biking.” I have heard this before and know that once he makes it over the hill to a resting place he will be OK. We cheer him on as he pushes had up the hill and that seems to help.


    We make it to Lisdoonvarna in an hour and have a picnic lunch in the center of town. Lisdoonvarna hosts an annual Matchmakers Festival and draws singles from all over the world. Each year, during the month of September, this small village on the western coast of Ireland offers a quest for the romance holy grail to hordes of lonely souls – the capturing of an Irish heart. Ah, ’tis a prize indeed.
    Did I mention the scene we made over chocolate in the local Despar food market?

    A typical crossroad in Ireland. The maps are OK but the signage is very good.

    After trying to understand a local on which way to go, we continue on our more or less merry way through the rock covered, deserted  fields. At the next intersection I realize that I have missed the turn to the Poulnabrone Dolmen (one of the most photographed Dolmens in Ireland) and the fort but do not have the heart to have the kids turn around. Arggggg. We continue on the main road and hit the top of the famous corkscrew hill. Decision time again. Thinking of the 30KM remaining and hearing Valentina’s whining, I opt for the direct way down but later regret it. It would have been the only chance for us to see an Irish Dolmen.  The decisions one makes on bike tour can make the difference between seeing the sights or not. Note to self. Ignore the whining when there is major historical moments to be experienced.

    Jumping Shot. Luca’s got it!

    We have a grand descent into Ballyvaughn, the kids love the switchback turns. Valentina gets cocky and goes no handed until I catch her and pull her over with the consequence of no treat at the next stop. We stop at the Burren overlook to take a few “jumping” shots, our new pose for the summer. Last year it was the funk, this year it is the jump.


    We arrive in Ballyvaughn by 4:30 and the kids begin making mahem at yet another eating establishment. I opt to wander around the town so as not to get sucked into being the referee in another game of “ Can I have” and “it’s not fair.” Mauro chooses to play, opts to buy the kids one smoothie to share between them. By the time I return, it has been spilled all over the counter and crying and arguing has replaced an otherwise happy travel moment. We clean up the mess and I suggest we get the heck out of town.


    Valentina and Lorenzo laugh at the whole thing and despite the stress these situations can cause at the moment, they are, in fact the very comical moments that make our family life unique and fun. These three mini Marx brothers can and would be, if allowed free reign, in constant comedy stunt mode. The problem is that someone always ends up getting their bodies and feelings hurt then it’s run to mamma time. The minute I step in and try to fix the situation, I am stuck in the middle of futile fairness game of which there is no return.

    Walking the Burren Rocks, learning about geology

    We begin the rolling and flat ride down the “Coast road” to Doolin. The rain comes and goes as we make our way down this spectacular road. We stop to observe the limestone rock surface, geology in action, that parallels the road. The Burren is one of the finest examples of a Glacio-Karst landscape in the world and offer a unique opportunity to ramble across ancient stone. We climb across the fissures in this smooth typical burren stone where tiny flowers grow in the cracks and water has created delightful variations of cross hatch patterns over time. As the kids jump from rock to rock, I give an amateur  geology lesson about the Burren’s fascinating rock which seems to stick.



    Onward down the road, the bushes grow high and hug the shoulder making the road extremely narrow. Although there are very few cars, we ride single file. I see a castle in the distance on the sea and try to follow a tiny grassy path to it. The path instead ends at family graveyard which offers an interesting peak back in time.


    We continue pedaling and soon the road opens up to barren hillsides with burren rock to our left and the vast sea to our right. The clouds today have been incredible–constantly changing puff of shape carved by light and wind. While waiting for Luca, the kids find a small cave that they crawl into. Small finds along the way.

    While I walked the rocks, Luca sculpted





    We come upon another vast burren plateau that stretches flat to the sea. We park our bikes and walk around. Lorenzo and I shoot pictures, Mauro wanders and Valentina and Luca build stone sculptures to add to the other tourist creations that are dispersed across the flat rocks. Throughout these Irish rides I have been enchanted by the massive rock walls built high and seemingly going nowhere and serving no purpose. Here the walls run into the sea



    It’s already 7:00 PM. We ask how far to Doolin, we hear 6KM but I believe it is more; it ends of being 16Km which takes us another hour. We have no odometers and no real sense of the distances we have travelled which on some level is fine but when trying to make it home before dark, it might be nice to know. The road descends along the coast, through the town of Fanore and then turns inland where it begins to climb again. We take a break at a large field where the bulls come to say hello. I groan at them and they groan back which entertains the kids. We keep climbing through this magnificent farmland until we see the right turn to Doolin, then its downhill all the way back to our tiny B&B on the sea


    Quick showers and another night at the pub, tonight it’s Mac Darmada’s where we have another great meal, a few rounds of Smithwicks and an hour of delightful music. We head back to our B&B for a good night’s sleep before our morning ferry to Inisheer.

    While we were in Doolin the kids made friends with a donkey Luca named “Nibbles”

    Day Four: Inisheer Island
    After breakfast we say good bye to the Doolin area and pedal our bikes to the ferry docks. The 11:00 ferry is small and filled with tourists making their way to the island. It rolls and rocks and the water gushes in and covers the floor of the boat which provides enormous entertainment for the children. I watch the horizon and try not to get seasick.


    Arriving at Inisheer, we are greeted by a taxi service that takes our luggage to our delightful hotel set back from the bay. Our breaks squeak and rub and parts are beginning to loose on our rental bikes so we stop at the bike rental shop to get a tune up and buy a small map of this 2 KM long island which we can see in an afternoon. We ride to our hotel, meet the owners, see our room have some lunch and get on our way to explore the island.

    Biking in Inisheer is easy, just follow the maze of rock walls!

    First stop is the graveyard with a tiny ancient church set into the ground and  dating back to the 11th century. We then follow the tiny road east as it begins to zig zag through a maze of rock walls leading to a fabulous site, a completely rusty shipwrecked vessel perfectly perched on the shore. The rusting hulk, the Plassy, was shipwrecked in 1960 and thrown up high onto the rocks. We explore the ship from the outside and inside. Lorenzo wants to explore everywhere inside. I get nervous that the boat’s 2nd floor might not hold us. The whole scene reminds Lorenzo and I of the last scene in planet of the apes.

    Now here is “find” they wil remember for life–The deserted Plassy

    We continue the zig zagging ride. There are only a few roads so I know you can’t get lost but Luca still yells “Mom where the heck are we going?” At that time I explain the concept of rambling and serendipity and the art of allowing your curiosity about places lead the way. He says he does not get it but of course he does—children’s minds work that way. The next site that draws us in is the uninhabited lighthouse built in 1857. We take a break here, do some jump shots and pedal back down the straight narrow way. We pedal to the other side of the island where rock walls cover the landscape in box shapes. I am determined to follow the road to the end. The kids tire of my curiosity and turn around, leaving me time to wander on my own. I meander back to our hotel and stake out a spot at the WIFI bar where I can check email and have a moment to gather my thoughts. I meet an Irish family who tells me that they are staying 2 weeks on this tiny island so their children can practice Gaelic, the Irish language. They tell me that it is taught so badly in school that children do not learn it and that it is dying out in most of Ireland. Here in Connemara, the Burren and on the Islands, the language has its strongest foothold.

    The jolly proud owner of our B&B

    I head back to our lovely hotel  to shower and get ready for dinner. We sit down and toast another great day. I have a delicious baked haddock with dill and boiled potatoes.
    After dinner, it’s pub time. There’s also a pool table that entertains the children while Mauro and I listen to music. Three young girls have come to accompany the main band. Their expressions are enchanting and their pride to play for us is beaming from their blue eyes. Luca, Lorenzo and Valentina soon gather round to hear the sounds before heading to bed.

    Redheaded sisters serenade us

    Inisheer to Inishmoor: Mishaps and Mahem


    Day Five: Inishmoor
    We wake up early to Anna’s delicious Irish breakfast in their light filled breakfast room. Today we are off on another ferry to Inishmoor, the largest of the three Aran Islands. Luggage down, we take a picture with our host Anna and Rory and ride our bikes 5 minutes to the ferry. Their B&B luggage delivery system is a brilliant solution to our 10 day tour here. With the help of our friendly B&B host we load our luggage and ourselves onto the tiny ferry to Inishmoor. It’s a bumpy ride so I take a seat and cuddle with Luca who prefers to sit outside and feel the sea mist on his cheeks. Upon arriving, we leave our luggage, get a map of the Island at the desk and orientate ourselves on where to ride.


    Although it might seem that everything is going smoothly on our bike adventures. I assure you that kids are kids whether they are home or on the road. While traveling, they still don’t listen, they still don’t get up when you want them to and they still bicker and whine. The big difference is that we are doing something we love and they know that we hold the map, the money and the hotel keys so the power struggles are actually less.


    As parents we just try to find the gold nuggets, photo ops, funny, poignant and the every day learning moments however our day on Inishmore flowed so badly; it’s best to reflect and laugh at the day through our top ten list of mishaps, that started right after breakfast

    Seal Cove

    Top Ten List of Inisheer Mishaps
    1. Mom looses her glasses again and we almost miss the ferry to Inishmoore. Never lost just deep in her pocket.
    2. Luca has a crying fit and we are not sure why.
    3. No more Euro. No exchange place open until 2:00. It’s 11:30 and we want to ride
    4. We completely disagree on lunch options. It’s cold and I want hot soup. Mauro wants to get sandwich stuff at Spar and have a picnic. Kids want chocolate. We gather stuff at the market that no one wants but we eat it in the cold anyway. Peanut butter gets stuck in Lorenzo’s braces so I get him soup. Tension mounts
    5. The weather turns and we do not have enough warm stuff. We go back to the B&B. Luca revolts claiming we will never get to the fort
    6. Back at the B&B. Kids play chicken on their bikes. Valentina plows into a wall, gets a pinched flat and rips the tire. No spare either. Mechanic is unavailable until 1:30. We get it fixed, did she learn a lesson?
    7. We change money and get on our way. Tough headwind defeats Luca. He rides but screams the whole way and claims we will never get to the Fort
    8. Lorenzo goofs around on his bike. Slips on his pedal and scrapes his leg, bad.
    9. We arrive at the Fort. It’s all uphill. Luca claims we will never get there. We get a tourist shop fix
    10.We make it to the base of the fort but realize we forgot the locks. The ticket lady hides our bikes so we can go in. Gotta pay all this goodness forward.
    11.Walk uphill to the magnificent Dun Aengus. I read from a guide book about how the place is a spiritual pilgrimage site; no one (except Mauro) listens. At the top there is 300 foot drop to the sea. I beg kids not to mess with my mind here and be good. They listen, thank God no major mishap here!  We take some great “jump” photos. All is good and wonderful
    12. Return ride to B&B. After a day of mishaps, we are blessed with a wonderful tail wind that pushes us up the hill and all the way back. Trip out took 1 hour. Trip back takes 30 minutes. The trips seems back in alignment
    13. Off to dinner after showers. We sit down, order beers. Whoops. No Credit card excepted.
    14.Walk to next restaurant. Kids fight over their ITOUCH, Angry Bird game. Even though this seems to entertain the family next to us, I quickly take it away.
    15. Good food. Good time until Luca puts the napkin too close to the candle. Small fire is put out quickly. We laugh and make a toast to our day of craziness
    16. We pass on music tonight to get to bed early to catch our 8:00 AM ferry to the mainland tomorrow. All in all, another wonderful day on the road with kids

    We might have mishaps but we always have fun

    One of the highlights of the day is that I was able to connect with June Boulger, the amazing woman who designed and led our very first bike tour in Connemara 14 years ago. Our Irish luck is with us. She is in Connemara for the weekend with her husband and three year old son Liam. We will pass by her house tomorrow!


    Day Six: Inishmoor to the Connemara
    We rise early. Valentina is suffering a very sore throat. Her glands are swollen and she is feeling miserable. She has probably caught the same bug that Lorenzo had the previous week. Luckily no fever and knowing she will survive and there is not much we can do, we get them up help them pack their bags that will be transferred to Clifden and head down to breakfast.

    Leaving B&B
    Clowning in Connemara

    We board the large Aran Island ferry at 8:15 after 45 minutes of a relatively calm trip, we arrive  at Rossaveal where our luggage shuttle has arrived. It’s a windy but sunny day. We pack layers in Mauro’s panniers and make our way up the coast stopping first at a SPAR market to get each child a ration of chocolate.

    The Bog road has bog!


    Lorenzo wants the sign to say, we have arrived

    We head in the direction of Cashel. The road is long and uninteresting for the children although I love the clouds and the rugged landscape. They continue to ask me how far it it is and unfortunately none of the maps I am using have reliable KM markings as my Italy maps do so I can only guess.  We get to crossroads and I get a text message from June wondering where we are. I let her know that at the intersection of route 465 & 496 and are near the bog road and she says we should be to her house in 45 minutes. I tell the kids and we continue on our way turning right off the coastal onto the bog road which cuts across through a wild wilderness with full view of the twelve bin mountain range. I find the road glorious. The head winds make Luca anxious and very angry. He looked at the mountain range and was convinced that I was taking him to the top. On a road that, for a seven year old seems to never end, he claims that I am a “white liar.”  He must have heard the term white lie and thought it meant a worse lie than most. Whatever he meant, he was not a happy camper and cried, whined and screamed for most of the 6 mile ride across the bogs. There was not much we could say; just had to get through it. The other two weren’t much happier and did not allow me to take any pictures. “We just hate biking mom”

    We hate bogs and biking

    I love bogs and biking

    From the map it appears that There is a triathlon and a police at the corner. We ask how far it is to Cashel. He says 8 miles. “What?” I ask again. “We are going to June Boulger’s house, do you know June?
    “Oh yes, that will be four miles” he replies

    Happy to see Fresh Eggs

    We ride a few more minutes and take a left to Cashel. I see a old man on a bike and ask him how far it is. He says one mile. I text June and tell her where I am. She says we are five minutes away. She tells me to take a left when we see a FRESH EGGS sign.  The kids now understand that  everyone is a “white liar” that distances depend on who you are and what you know.

    Off the bog road, away from the wind and knowing that we cannot be far, the kids mental state takes a dramatic shift for the better. We follow a winding coastal road, the smell of the sea is strong and my excitement to see June again is mounting. I begin to recognize the scenery and then I see June’s mother’s house, take another turn and hear a ping ping on my phone. “Where are you now?” she writes. “At the Fresh Egg sign!” I reply.  We take a left, ride a mile and I see her standing there welcoming us with open arms. I jump off my bike and give her a big hug. Her singing voice and big smile warms my heart. She welcomes the whole gang inside her white cottage with a view of Cashel Bay.  The “45 minute” ride took two hours but whose counting?


    We spend the next two hours in her kitchen with her husband, Neil and brother Cliff feasting on a continual flow of delicious food: fresh bread, cheese, fresh fruit, tomatoes, chicken and pasta. She prepares most of the meal with her three-year old son Liam clinging to her body and pulling so hard on her hair that her head tilts to the right.  I am feeling the glow of being reconnected with an old friend and great memories of our 12 day Ciclismo Classico Ireland tour 14 years ago.

    The GREAT June Boulger Reunion

    With another hour or riding ahead, we begin wrapping up lunch and planning the next 12 miles to Cashel. We take a family potrait and a picture of June and I. The headwind is still strong so June offers to take Luca by car to Clifden. Luca is reluctant as he does not want to “wimp” out on the miles but eventually realizes that it’s a good idea.


    The skies are gray, the winds are strong and there is misty rain but our spirits and stomachs are full so the riding comes easy. It’s 5:00 PM and with 12 miles to go, I calculate that we will make it by 6:00. We avoid the coast and take another “bog” road to Clifden. The winds have shifted and are now almost at our backs. We ride at a good clip until Lorenzo has some problems with his shifting. He gets very mad at his bike. The wheel is blocked; I fix it by centering the wheel. Back in business. I see a cyclist pedaling the other way. He says it’s 3 miles to Clifden. I believe him since cyclists get mileage. We pull into town at 5:50. Lorenzo and I sprint to the bike store to get his brakes and gears adjusted since we have no tools. A very large mechanic smoking a cigarette takes a look but admits he is anxious to close his shop and head to the pub.



    We indeed make it to Clifden by 6:00. We check into the Kingston House B&B and before taking showers take a walk around town and arrive at the supermarket where Valentina happily picks up nail polish remover, shampoo and a chocolate bar. We wander back to the hotel and take a seat in the warm and tiny “tea” room complete with fish tank, piano, TV, fresh fruit, a comfy couch and a tea and coffee table. What more does one need on a rainy afternoon in Ireland? Well we are still missing Luca who was delivered soon after by June. Her car is filled with kids so she cannot stick around. We say our sad goodbyes and hope to see each other again in Ireland or Boston

    Kindred Cycling Spirits

    Post showers we walk around the street to Guys Bar and Snug where we take a seat by the music. We meet up with some folks from Maine who have been living in Heidelberg Germany for the year and are on their way home with Ireland as their last stop. We exchange adventures and my imagination wanders to a year abroad with the kids. Where would we live? What would that be like?


    The beers and dinner arrive and we savor another delicious meal. I start with the classic vegetable soup puree’ and finish with a lightly Cajun spiced baked salmon with wild rice. Nice. The next morning I rise early to sit and write in peace in the tea room. By 9:00 I check on the kids who are crowded in their bedrooms watching Tarzan on TV. I start rustling them and demand that they get dressed and down for breakfast in 20 minutes. It will take much barking to get them out and ready.


    Our hostess prepares us a lovely breakfast. I have fresh fruit with yogurt and Luca and Lorenzo get pancakes! Just as we are ready to roll we discover Mauro has a flat. Luckily the bike shop is next to our B&B but the woman running the shop has just gone to church. We manage to find her and I get the tools and spare we need to change the flat. I take the time to patch the tire and give the kids a lesson in fixing a flat.

    Day 7 Clifden to Leenan: A glorious day!


    We finally head out the Sky Road and it is as beautiful as I remember it 14 years ago This is going to be a good day! The skies are clear and the views are incredible. We take our time climbing up this steep but glorious road. At the top of the climb Valentina whines about her sore throat and throws her water bottle, helmet and threatens to go back to Clifden. Mauro looses it, the boys start teasing and small battle ensues followed by a collective tantrum. I am feeling so happy, nothing can get me worked me up. I take it all in stride and do a series of jumping shots. Valentina choose to sulk but perks up when we take a picture together. Overall I am so proud of our children. They have been riding hard and strong despite the rain and heavy bikes.


    We continue along the Sky road as it descends toward the coastline and heads back along the inlet to the main wall. We keep stopping to check out the views. Sheep are everywhere baaing at us. Luca keeps leading the way. It as if raising his seat has given him new energy.


    Once on the main road we decide to head straight to Letterfrack for lunch. It’s a main road and busier than the Sky Road so we ride single file with Luca in the lead. The road is fast and we have a great spin into Letterfrack. Lunch is soup, sandwiches and pizza at a small café then we are off to the Kylemore Abbey, one of the most gorgeous castles in Connemara. 3 tour buses have just unloaded dozens of Italians and as we wind our way through the crowd of Italiani, Lorenzo gets thumbs up for his Italia blue cycling shirt. Although he has no interest in the history of the place, this makes his day. We roam inside the castle, the Gothic church and on the grounds for an hour and then depart for the last 25 miles of our ride.

    Lorenzo poses reluctantly with me

    We make our way up the road to the village of Tully Cross and Lettergesh following another gorgeous coastal road lined with flowers, sheep and high above the sea. It’s called the Tully Cross Loop. The road eventually dips down the bay and heads along an inland lake I am in heaven and I know it will end soon. Although they hate to admit it, the kids get along best when they are biking. They can’t get in each others way and must take turns following and leading

    We love all the sheep!




    A glorious lake road

    We pass a group of fisherman wrapping up the day and although it is already 7 PM and we have another 10 miles to go, I stop and ask the man to demonstrate a fly cast. With a jolly smile he takes a fly from his box, ties it on, casts and tells Luca how it’s done. I ask “ How do you know what fly to put on? “ We just follow Johnny he replies with a laugh.

    We learned the tricks of fly fisherman
    A glorious road

    We leave the lake and climb gently towards the Killary Harbor. A left turn takes us on the main road and a long descent swoops us down to a road that follows the harbor. The temperature, the light, the moment is perfect. Luca is cruising and he races ahead until I whistle for him to stop so we can enjoy the views. I don’t mind dragging the miles on now. We may never pass this way again. We reach Leenane by 7:30 and stop to get a snack at the tiny Spar market. Fig newtons and cookies will do. I go in and check out the Pub which is hopping with folks of all ages including a gang of kids playing pool in the backroom.

    Luca races ahead to Leenan
    The end of the glorious road in Killary Harbor

    11 more KM until the Delphi Mountain Resort and Adventure Center. We ride down and around the harbor. At the very end of the harbor, facing North, is graveyard with a few dozen headstones. We all agree that this is a wonderful place to rest in peace.  The car free, sheep full road followed the eastern side of the harbor. Flat and downhill we cruised along. As we turn inland and face a mountain range. Luca gets anxious fearing the road will never end. His excitement quickly turned to tears. Before I had to distract him for another few miles, the sign for the Delphi Center appeared, he sprinted and was the first one into the driveway of our lovely 4 star home for two nights. We arrive at 8:20 with just enough time to shower and head upstairs to the airy bistro. It was late, we were tired but nothing could take away the glow, sense of accomplishment and bonding we all felt.

    Our four star home for two days

    Day 8 Coasteering at Delphi
    We had a well deserved rest day today. It was pouring rain outside so rest came that much easier. For the morning we hung out in the big comfortable seats in the lounge. I caught on on emails and writing, the kids were totally entertained by a new ap on their IPOD called Angry Bird and Mauro made hotel and shuttle plans for the rest of our trip. Our time in Ireland is coming to a close and we are all sad. This has been a very special trip for all of us. Although the kids said they would like more rest days (agreed), I think that they absorbed with their bodies and souls what bicycle travel is about.


    After lunch we loaded up in the van to go coasteering. an activity that I never heard of but that is apparently very popular in Whales and Great Britain. The definition of coasteering according to wiki is “a physical activity that encompasses movement along the intertidal zone of a rocky coastline on foot or by swimming, without the aid of boats, surf boards or other craft. It is difficult to define the precise boundaries between, for example, rockpooling and ocean swimming. “ This sounds like what we do in Southern Italy but the only difference is that here the water is cold and the swells were big.

    Now this is FUN! Cold waters sharp rocks and fast currents
    Captain Seaweed



    We put on wet suits and followed our guide Stephen to the rocky coastline at Old Head. We started out in mild waters and as we worked our way around the coast the rocks, waves and swells got bigger and bigger. Our guide took great care to let us know where to climb and where to swim. The kids followed instructions and did beautifully.  The water was definitely cold and the swells were strong but we all did very well to swim, float and grab onto the rocks.  It was a great little new adventure for all.

    For the last ride we dress the part!

    The Last Ride: Delphi to Westport
    We hoped on our bikes for the last time on this wonderful journey in the West of Ireland and began our ride up a spectacular road that followed the Doolough Pass to Westport. The Dolough Pass may be gorgeous today but in 1847 100 of those starving from the potato famine walked to Delphi to ask for relief. When they got there, the Board of Guardians were at lunch and could not be disturbed. When they finally did meet with them, the people were refused help. That day it rained and snowed and there was a piercing wind. On the return journey to Lousier, over 100 of the starving were blown into Doolough by the fierce wind where they died. The memorial commemorates those who died at this point. The sun peaked out of the clouds and painted the lush mountains in an array of tonalities. Today this landscape feels nothing but joyous. I could not help but be a bit sad to see it all end—it has been a magnificent trip.

    What an amazing view. Hard to imagine such a tragedy occurred here.

    Like every day, today was not without a problem or two. On the road for a few miles we noticed that while at the Delphi center, someone had borrowed Luca’s bike and lowered the seat. The seat was not a quick release and we were without tools so we had to stop at someone’s home and ask for tools. Frustrated and crying, Luca would not calm down. I stopped at several houses before we found the tool we were looking for (and a kind woman who knew how to use it). She raised the saddle and Luca was back in business.  Riding away, waving at the family, I repeated  one of my favorite mantras: There are no problems, just solutions.

    Only 21 KM to go

    We were riding at a great clip, making great time towards Westport. We used a bit of biking math conversions and calculations to figure out how fast we were riding, how many miles were left and our approximate arrival time. By the last day, they were beginning to think and act like real bike tourists. I felt very proud. We stopped in Louisburgh for a quick snack. We peeked into a gallery next to the supermarket and met a painter and graphic artist working on his computer. We discover that he use to live in LA where he worked on many animated movies. Small world.

    To all my Irish friends: Here’s the real St Patrick!

    Pedaling the last 12 miles was a breeze. More sheep, distant farmland and miles of seascape. Just before Westport we stopped at Croagh Patrick, Croagh Patrick has been a site of pilgrimage since before the arrival of Celtic Christianity, Saint Patrick reputedly fasted on the summit of Croagh Patrick for forty days in the fifth century and built a church there. It is said that at the end of Patrick’s 40-day fast, he threw a silver bell down the side of the mountain, knocking the she-demon Corra from the sky and banishing all the snakes from Ireland. Unfortunately we did not have time to climb all the way to the top but we did take a celebratory picture with Saint Patrick, a nice way to finish our last ride in Ireland!

    We’ve arrived!
    Westport Quay

    We rode the last five miles to Westport taking the coastal road that passed majestic homes and elegant hotels. We arrived in Westport at 3:30 with just enough time to walk around, eat lunch, shower at our B&B and enjoy our last evening of pub food and traditional Irish music at the famous Matt Malloys, owned my one of Cheiftains



    The next morning we wake early, have our last Irish breakfast, portrait with our host Noreen and rush to the bus to Galway It is a two hour trip to this bustling city. We say good bye to our bikes which albeit heavy have served us well.  We drop our luggage off at the train station so we can roam the town. Kids have waited for a souvenir shopping day and it has arrived and Galway with it abundant shops, is the place to do it.We only have a couple hours so we go from store to store seeking out hats and T shirts.




    We leave for Dublin by bus. The trip takes longer than we think and we arrive just in time to catch our plane. One last problem: Ryan Air is very cheap for a reason–your luggage must be less than 15 kilos and of course ours is not. We scramble to rearrange and repack our luggage but still end up paying a hefty price for our layers. Gotta work on my packing!


    We make it to the plane just on time for one last portrait. Good Bye Ireland. With any Irish luck (and planning) we will be back next year with friends!

    BYE BYE ireland we hardly know yee but we will be back

    Return to Lofoten on a Ciclismo Classico Family Tour: Day 3-6

    Tuesday, October 5th, 2010
    We wake again to gray, drizzle and exhausted kids but manage to roll everyone down to the dining room for our Norwegian breakfast of cereals, fresh bread and a myriad of fish and cheese toppings. By 10:30 we make our ways on our bikes and begin pedaling up the windy coast. The weather can and will change in minutes so as we watch the wind blow East we know that the clouds will likely turn to sun and visa versa throughout the day. 

    Valentina and Lorenzo are cruising up with Kirk, Luca gets quickly defeated by the heavy winds. I hear his whimper turn to a cry, his cute little face gets all scrunched up in pain so since I can’t fix “it”, I begin a round of 20 questions and he gets to pick what I will guess for (living thing or not) which immediately helps him gets his mind off the tough stuff.  He stumps me with rocket ship, telephone pole and kangaroo. This little game is a great one to pass the miles and by the time round three is finished were are done with 10 KM and have met up with the group.

    The next leg of the trip takes us up towards Gimsoy; we stop along the way at a mirror sculpture by NY artist Dan Graham, facing the mountains and the sea and whose angles distort all reflections. I later learn that Dan has had a long time fascination with reflective surfaces. The kids are jazzed about this great find and could have spent most of the morning here making faces and watching their bodies contort into a variety of shapes.  At first, the sculpture does not appear to be present in a material sense, but rather as something that captures light and images of the surrounding landscape. With its reflective, concave panoramic walls, it is no less than a feast for the eye
    We move on pedaling a lovely rolling road to towards Gimsoya. Luca is doing better now that he has removed some layers and rejoined the group so I ride ahead and Mauro takes the rear. In Lofoten you can watch the weather come and go. The sky goes from clearish to cloudy and soon it begins to rain. Our snack stops arrives just in time. We have a snack stop of cookies, nuts and dried fish which Valentina calls Norwegian beef jerkey. Devin loves it. I pass and opt for cookies. 
    We let the rain pass before crossing a long, sweeping bridge connecting one island to the next. Kirk, Lorenzo, Valentina, Jim, Angie and I take the extra loop to Gimsoya while Luca, Devin, Mauro, Joyce and Sandro head on the main loop to set up the picnic. As we start out along this tiny road following the massive fiord, the sun pops and everything begins to sparkle. It’s a glorious road that, with its farms, field of wildflowers and massive peaks to our left and right remind me of Switzerland but enough comparisons to other places– this is Lofoten, a tiny, remote place at the top of the world blessed with incredibly gorgeous big views for everyone.  I belt out a few Sound of Music tunes, an ancient cycling ritual of mine in response to roads like this that make me feel totally ALIVE!
    We take a break at a gorgeous sandy white beach with expansive 360 degree views. The sand is hard-packed and perfect for riding. Kirk takes the first spin but rides too close to a sea bird’s (an Oystercatcher’s) nest and we watch as the birds dive bomb him with their long orange beaks. The rest take to the beach to play, biking in every direction, enjoying the new sensation of riding in the sand and through the water just where the water breaks.  No hands. No problem
    I am thrilled to watch Lorenzo, the sometimes road cycling skeptic, pedaling carefree along the beach jumping rocks and going through the water. The more he (and all kids) appreciates these small, joyous moments on bike, hopefully the more he will begin to see riding on two wheels as a source of ultimate freedom and fun. It’s one of those special tour moments that will last in our minds forever (and if not I have taken plenty of pictures to jump start our minds back).
    We take a few group photos and hop back on the bikes to reunite with our group on the road to Stamsund. Sandro has picked a perfect spot for a picnic but it starts to rain again and we take cover in and around the van as we munch on bread, cheese, potato salad, fish, pate, carrots, peaches and chocolate for desert.

    After lunch we head along the coastal road. The sky breaks again and turns from gray to a glorious blue. This flat and gently rolling coastal road is 20 miles of absolutely spectacular scenery, a road I wished never ended and one I hope to do again someday.  Definitely makes my top ten list of the world’s best roads!  Last year I had done ridden it at 1:00 AM under gray skies. To our left and across the sea are a range of peaks that zig zag across the horizon all the way to Hemingsvar where we had come from that morning. To our right, a wall of green mountains whose forms continually morph and change. In the foreground, farmland, rocky outposts and yellow and white wildflowers galore. I continually take pictures, each one better than the next. A gentle tailwind only sweetens the ride and helps keep the group together.

    As we approach Stamsund with about 10 more KM to go, Devin and Angie hop in the van and the others ride ahead while I hang with Luca in the back. He has done 30 miles and I am very impressed; he is tired and wants to be finished. I have not drank enough water and have a massive headache from not drinking enough water (too busy looking!) so we both push through and support each other.
    We see the town in the distance but in his 7 year old eyes it never gets closer. We hit a head wind as we go around a corner and he looses it. Luckily the wind died down as the roads dips into the bay. We see Kirk ahead waiting for us, just in time to talk Luca through the last 5 KM to our rorbur on the sea. It’s our longest day and everyone is beat. We calculate that Luca has done 40 miles and Valentina and Lorenzo have done 50, the longest they have all ever ridden. I am super proud and they are surprisingly upbeat and positive. 
    We go to dinner at the Skjaerbrygga in Stamsund. The adults have an appetizer of finely sliced whale meat and delicious fish soup while the kids eat pizza and draw. Midnight light or not, bedtime comes easy.
    The next morning we are off to the Viking museum and Ballstad as our final destination. We all head out along the coastal road and you can tell that wind is going to be a challenge as we ride hard and go slow. Luca is quickly defeated but then we go around the bend and the wind is at our back and life is good. Valentina is riding strong; Lorenzo is still tired from the ride the previous day. We hit a long climb and Luca makes it with only a slight whimper near the top. At the bottom of the hill is Leknes where we stop at an Esso gas station to use the restroom and buy large bars of chocolate.
    For the 13KM ride to the Viking museum, the road is busy but we enjoy a huge headwind that makes the ride super fast, easy and fun. As mac addicts with a creative drive, conversation between Jim and I flows quite easily as I teach Luca how to shift down, pedal hard and catch momentum of the wind. He does and catches Lorenzo and Valentina easily. 
    We make it to the Viking museum with plenty of time for lunch before our English tour at 1:30. The hands on, dress up and play exhibits keep the kids engaged for almost two hours. 

    By 3:00 the wind and rain has picked up and Jim and I search the gift store for warmer clothes. Jim emerges with a complete Norsk outfit of sweater, hat, gloves and socks and defines a new cycling look that would never pass in the US but will saves the day for the 30KM of challenging weather (30 mph wind and rain to be exact) that we hit for our ride home. Only Jim, Mauro, Kirk and I opt to ride the strong headwinds and gentle rain. The rest pile in the van and get a well deserved shuttle back. 

    The winds die down and the sun sparkles the wet pavement as we approach the sea arriving at our destination, passing the world’s largest mural, a delightful seascape by Norwegian American artist Scott Thoe. Scott, who has fallen in love with this island, has his wonderful gallery in Stamsund.  Drenched but happy we pedal to our rustic rorbur on the sea. 

    Thirteen kilometers take us two hours, an average of 8 miles per hour thanks to 30 mph winds.  Hot showers soon followed by cold beers, fish soup and warm bread at our cozy restaurant make cold beers, fish soup and warm bread put us back in synch with the universe. 





    The next morning after our route rap, we pile into a small fisherman’s boat for a 40 minute trip to Nusfjord, tucked into the base of stunning fiord and considered one of the most typical Lofoten villages. We roam around the small town and meet the local calabrese silversmith who bears resemblance to Salvador Dali.

    We head the road down and pedal through and up the fiord passing a massive mountain wall that is the backdrop to Lake Storvatnet. I ride the hill with Luca and as stresses about the climb, I attempt a quick geology lesson, have him look at the mountain’s layers and tell him that the formation of the earth is like piles of pancakes that over millions of years get hurled up to the sky to form mountains. Not sure if he got it the concept but he made it up the hill like a champ. The sun pops again in full glory as we enjoy the descent down the other side. 

    For the remainder of the trip we pedal on the E10, an incredible road (they all are I guess) that winds past sandy beaches, small villages and along the shores of the massive fiords connected by long sweeping bridges. 

    We stop for a delicious picnic lunch on a dock in Ramberg. During lunch a curious fisherman bikes towards us, stops to pump up his tires and shows Sandro the bike he got for his 79th birthday, a shiny blue cruiser. 

    Back on the road again we begin the second half of our ride along the glorious Selfjorden Fiord towards Reine. I stop continuously to take in the views and to photographically capture the experience of this magnificent landscape. 

    We regroup in Sund and as we cross the bridge the sun hides behind the mountain and the landscape turns gray. We convince Luca to hop in the van so we can pick up the pace and move along to our final destination, the tiny village of Tind. He is not happy about this. Lorenzo and Valentina are riding stronger than ever before and I am very impressed—no complaining just riding strong, getting along and enjoying the views— a 360 shift from the year before. Cycling parents, there is hope for your fledging offspring who you think will never get it! 

    I catch the wheel of a couple of fully loaded English bike tourists and cruise with them to next rest stop. A quick snack of nuts and cheese and we descend into Hamnoya, past Reine, Moskennes and finally to our rorbur in Tind. That evening we pedal down the road 1KM to our restaurant, Marem Anna where we gather around a long wooden table and enjoy another wonderful meal. The delicate appetizer arrives, tiny crawfish with a single scallop and a seasoned breadstick followed by a deliciously seasoned, buttery fresh haddock steak garnished with potato salad and sautéed vegetables. 

    For desert three single scoops of vanilla ice cream floating in fresh strawberry sauce. The portions perfectly satisfy my strong cycling appetite. We hear that Spain is playing Holland in the final rounds of the world cup but there is no TV to follow the waves of screaming that are occurring all over the world. By the time we leave we hear that Spain is victorious and will go into the finals to be played this week. Buenas Noches Lofoten!



    MORE great pics here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/48084728@N02/sets/72157624484411250/http://www.flickr.com/photos/48084728@N02/sets/72157624484411250/


    Return to Lofoten on a Ciclismo Classico Family Tour: Day 1-4

    Tuesday, October 5th, 2010

    After 12 hours of hugely uncomfortable but uneventful plane travel we arrived in Bodo, the small city from which all ferries leave to Lofoten, the small island that took my heart away a little more than one year ago. The airport of Bodo is small, my favorite kind. Within minutes we collected our luggage and were out the door, on a bus and heading into town to catch a 3 hour ferry. We were starved and the kid’s  exhaustion from all night travel was setting in and raising its ugly head in the form of whining, crying, fighting and refusing to move any farther until food was supplied. We dragged our feet and luggage to a restaurant on the main drag and had mediocre pizza and salad. After plane food and a terrible night, they will eat anything. 

    We hop on the 3:00 ferry but just after we board we realize that it’s the wrong one so screaming we sprint off and board the ferry that is next to ours. Once we get on the ferry it does not take long for us to settle in. Lorenzo falls asleep while Valentina and Luca listen quietly to their IPODS. I read a bit then discover that the ferry has internet and I catch up on some emails.  Soon sleep overtakes me too and I let it. We arrive in Moskennes at 7:00 and our local guides Kirk and Roger are waiting to take us to our red rorbur overlooking the sea. Rorbu are a typical accommodation in Lofoten. The rorbu, literally meaning “row house” are cabins, once used by local fishermen, are simply restored and idyllically located between the fish landing station, quayside buildings, fish racks and other traditional, local buildings. Here, everywhere in Lofoten, you have the sea on one side, and the the spectacular Lofoten mountains on the other. 


    We drop off our luggage and walk to a Marem, a small, cozy restaurant overlooking the sea. The choices are limited, the prices are high but the dishes are flavourful. Luckily our waitress was Italian and could translate the Norwegian only menu. Mauro and I had a delicate Haddock steak with mustard sauce. The kids enjoyed very large burgers on thick, hearty locally baked rolls. After dinner we strolled back to our cabin and tried to settle down. Between the bright Northern lights, jet lag and general excitement over our new abode, no one fell asleep until at least 2:00 AM.

    The next day we let the kids sleep in until 12:00 giving me some time to catch up on organizing months of photographs. It will take me most of the summer to work on this project during travel downtime but its gotta get done.  By late afternoon we were on our way to Reine, Sandro’s base of operation. We tried out our bikes, enjoyed waffles and a bit of metalworking with the local blacksmith. Then, for the highlight of the day, we took an hour kayak trip with Kirk into the bay at the beginning of the Fiord. The water was glass like making the rowing easy. Luca, who took a six-week kayak and swim course at the Boys and Girls club rowed like an old pro. I watched in awe at all of us in this beautiful place so far from home. What a spectacular place. 
    After kayaking it was back to our rorbu and to dinner in the town of A (yes the name of this town is one letter, but pronounced “O”) where Ghana and Uruguay were playing a semi final round of the world cup. Ghana lost. Some were crushed. Others were not. That’s the way it goes in World Cup competition; At the same time, a bike race about to take off from the restaurant.  The annual race called Insominia, leaves at 11:00 and cover 250 KM across Lofoten and cyclists ride throughout the night. Not a huge field of riders but tightly dressed in warm layers and ready for a “night” ride under the midnight sun. We walk home and for the second night we are buzzed from the bright lights and energy from the day. Kids rest reluctantly but thanks to audio tapes slumber overcomes all.


    We wake to a gorgeous morning of pure sunshine. We head to the other side of the island to meet the Pohl family—Jim, Joyce, Angie and Devin who we will share our week here in Lofoten. Meeting them face to face after many emails and phone calls is a treat particularly when I discover they have been loyal fans and have been collecting our annual Ciclismo Classico brochure AND saving it on top of their refrigerator since 1990, when I illustrated all the places we went to rather than use photographs. Now that makes me smile.

    Our hotel, the Nyvågar Rorbuhotell is set into a quiet bay stunningly simple and lovely, a renovated grouping of boat houses overlooking a quiet bay and stunning mountains. Open your door and you are on a dock. Take five steps and you’re in the water. My kids love it and do not want to leave. Valentina settles in as if she has been there for weeks, Lorenzo learns that dock biking can be fun. 

    The Nyvågar Rorbuhotell is a rorbu cabin hotel built on the foundations of the medieval town of Vågar, the first town community of North Norway. This area still retains some of the atmosphere of old.  Here you can experience Lofoten Museum, which is built around one of Lofoten’s largest and best preserved village owner houses, as well as Galleri Espolin and Lofoten Aquarium. Life at Nyvågar is oriented towards the sea, and the spacious fisherman’s cabins are of a high standard with a high level of comfort. I love our rorbu cabins built on two levels, decorated in light colors.


    We meet to review the trip, have a snack and take a warm up ride on our bikes to Svolvar and back. The light is stunning as it whirls in and out of the clouds. In Svolvar the kids are doing wheelies in the main square and bouncing over steps while parents savor a large latte and some salty peanuts. The attempt to do a wheelie becomes a theme throughout the trip. There’s lots of excitement and chatting as we pedal home to our rorbu cabin on the sun filled dock. Sharing a love of travel, food, adventure, fun and bicycling, our families are instantly compatible. It’s going to be a great week!  Our dinner that evening is consistent with our accommodations, elegant yet simple: Fish mussle soup with salmon. Halibut with a bit of black caviar. Baked potato. For desert Panna Cotta. The basic description does not do justice to how the delicate flavors coated our palate. The dining room décor is rustic and cozy with old photographs and artefacts from Lofoten life a sea filling the room. The meal was a

    Day 2:
    Happy 4th of July! We wake up to a drizzling rain which allows us to try out all our new rain gear! We get off to a slow start with Kirk in the lead and the kids following him like a Pied Piper. We ride along a bike trail that parallels the main road. We are surrounded by lush mountain walls of green. The rain tapers off as we approach a 200m tunnel but rather than ride through it we take the gravel trail that goes over the mountain. It’s mostly hard packed but with enough loose rocks and incline that Luca reaches the top crying “ I am going to die.” Fully surviving he reaches the top to his cheering squad of Lorenzo, Valentina and Joyce. His tears dry and his confidence booms. 

    We take a group photo with the hazy mountains and sea behind us and head down the other side. I teach Luca and Angie not to sit on their bottoms but to lift their bodies and let the bike roll over the rocks. At the bottom we bike to the sea and a lovely sand and rock beach where the kids play, climb and collect shells until our snack of—cheese, nuts, crackers, hot chocolate, sliced banana, chips and sliced carrots—are ready.

    Fueled we ride the last 10 KM spectacular zig zagging miles along the sea and over two arched bridges to Henningsvar, the largest fishing village in the Lofoten.  Gorgeous coastal

    Twisting through sidestreets we arrive at our hotel, the Finnholmen Brygge and walk upstairs to the dining room and common area that’s warm and lined with long wooden tables where the kids have already made themselves comfortable. We relax, award them orange fanta for their hard work then ride back into town to search for lunch. We find the perfect spot, the Henningsvar Climbers Café, run by the NorthNorwegian School of Mountaineering www.nordnorskklatreskole.no. We know it’s got to be good because we find our guides there sipping a beer. The smell of hot soup, savory sauces fill the warm air. We order lasagne, pasta carbonara and a salad with chicken which we split and is plenty for all of us.  A local beer on tap washes it all down just right. 

    We continue wandering around this charming fishing village by bike including side trips along docks, around boats and into galleries  based out of musty smelling old barns filled with hand made wool hats, scarves and mittens and seafaring stuff from long ago. The rain picks up again and we head back for hot showers and some downtime before dinner.  It’s July 4th and like most years we are celebrating where no one else does so we have a humble toast to our great country and dig into our fresh fish soup. No chance of Fireworks here—it never gets dark!  
    COMING SOON DAYS 3-5
    Click for a sneak preview:http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=190461&id=648862127&l=52e26c74f2


    Top 10 Reasons Why The World’s Best Family Resort is also the most bike friendly resort

    Tuesday, October 5th, 2010

    For the past 13 years (ever since my first was one year old) my family has spent the last week of May at the Tyler Place, considered one of the best all-inclusive family resorts in the country. Obviously, we are ecstatic fans of the Tyler Place and could not agree more with it’s placement at the top of any TOP family vacation listing. Allow me to put it in vacation perspective: My kids and I have been known to weep and whine for the whole drive back home. My 7 year old son Luca said that the Tyler Place is better than Christmas. My 13 year old son dreams of the day when he can be counselor there. My 11 year-old daughter and I simply think that the Tyler Place is Family Utopia. No stress. All fun. Gorgeous location and the best three meals I eat all year long.

    Yes the Tyler Place is “100% family-friendly” (and has been for 5 generations). Yes! The Tyler Place Family Resort’s has “award-winning Infant, toddler, children, and teen programs.” Yes! The Tyler Place is “one of the coziest and best all-inclusive family resorts EVER”. Yes! The Tyler Place Family Resort’s all inclusive family vacations give you a top family vacation with your kids and time to reconnect as a couple, too! And with over 20 years of running Ciclismo Classico, the leaders in bicycle vacations I can attest that

    The Tyler Place is one of the Most Bike Friendly Family Resorts in the World.

    Here’s my top ten reasons why if you, your spouse or your entire family loves bicycling or would like to learn to be introduced to the joys of cycling that the Tyler Place is the Place for you:

    1. They have a Bike Center with an enormous fleet of FREE helmets and bicycles for all ages, sizes and abilities: Single-speed bikes for your entire stay, your kids’ own bikes and trikes, baby seats & training wheels, trail-a-bikes and tandem Bikes, adult Mountain bikes for touring, teen,  pre-teen mountain bikes. Just another cute Tyler detail is that each bike is named after a town in Vermont! The only bikes they do not have are road bikes but most people that love to ride can easily bring their own. No locks needed, ever!

    2. The Tyler Place, including  avid road and off-road cyclist Chad Tyler, embraces a cycling culture and promotes and encourages cycling as the best way to get around their gorgeous expansive property (and has the speed limit for cars at 10MPH). In their daily events schedule they write “We highly recommend that you just leave the keys with car while you are at the Tyler Place.”  All of the cottages on the Tyler Place are connected by a series of short roads and paths so one can bike from “home” to the Inn in minutes.  After I finish my long ride on my road bike, I love wandering the TP grounds on my mountain bike or one of their comfy cruisers.

    3. Almost everyone bikes around Tyler Place. There are bike racks at every Tyler hub (The inn, the pool, the kids program centers);  at program pick up and drop off times, the place is so completely buzzing with parents, kids and staff biking around that it feels like a small village in Denmark (the world’s most bike friendly country). Remember the “old days” (before kids were shuttled everywhere by car) when you biked to school, around your neighborhood, the candy and to sports? At the Tyler Place, kids (when they are ready and with their parent’s blessing hopefully) get to experience the joy, independence and freedom of biking around the resort. All three of my children (7,11 & 13) have evolved from me picking them up by bike, to their riding back and forth to program,  to our most recent stay when they got everywhere on their own.  They can even bike to good ole’ Martin’s Country Store, only a half a mile from the Tyler Place

    4. The Tyler Place has three escorted bike rides throughout the week as part of their adult  and teen programming: Their easy 11-mile around the charming Isle Du Mott, their 15-mile intermediate bike trip through Highgate northeast of the Tyler Place and an advanced 15-mile “heart-pounding” Mt Bike Ride on the glorious Tyler Place property. While these rides are probably too easy for avid cyclists, will certainly satisfy most folks wanting to blend biking with TP’s array of other activities. The Teen programming, which goes off the Tyler Campus, uses bicycles as their key transport. While my teenage son won’t be caught dead biking with his “biking obsessed” mother, as part of his teen program Lorenzo did an counsellor accompanied ride to local swimming holes, rode 14 miles to get pizza in nearby Swanton and used his bike to get everywhere with his buddy Nate.

    Want to bicycle around leisurely with your kids during family time? There are plenty of options. During family time we have taken excursions to Carmen Brook Farm, to Martin’s Store for candy and fishing worms, around Highgate and to Proper Pond to catch frogs with nature Dave.

    5. The Famous Duckman Triathlon has a biking leg that has launched guests into cycling nirvana. While every year my performance in the 8.8 mile biking portion has remained a competitive yet stable at 19mph/28:18 minutes, I know of several guests who began doing bike races and triathlons seriously as a result of their tasting the thrill of victory in the Duckman. While all you win is a tiny plastic duck and bragging rights at the bar, the pedal-as-fast-as-you can biking portion to Swanton and back is a weekly highlight for newbie and experienced bikers alike.



    6. Learn How to Ride a Bike Lesson. Teaching your kid how to ride a bike is not as easy as it seems. Done wrong and your kid can do a nose plant that may delay this important childhood skill. With kids biking everywhere, the peer pressure is on to learn to ride two wheels.  The TP biking culture, the flat and rolling grounds, combined with an hour-long lesson by their experienced instructor should easily do the trick

    7. Plenty of Peace of Mind time to ride! While your kids are in their morning program from 8:30-1:30, you have at five hours to ride to your heart’s content! I usually take two to three since I like to linger a bit over breakfast and lunch.

    8. The Tyler Place is an excellent base for a week’s worth of gorgeous loops. The nice part about Tyler Kingdom in Northwest Vermont is that, unlike most of the green state, it’s mostly gently rolling and totally flat. For both beginner and advanced adult cycling enthusiasts, Vermont and Quebec’s Eastern Townships offer not only several excellent loops but abundant cycling resources such as Lake Champlain Bikeways and The Green Mountain Bicycle Club a group I always see on at least one of my Tyler Place loops. Over the past 13 years I have tried out many loop rides from the Tyler Place. Here are my fab four rides that during the week I will either repeat or vary. You can find these rides and more on Map My Ride

    1. Ode to St. Albans: Flat and rolling ride along Lake Champlain to St Albans bay. Optional extension to Kilkare St Park. Plenty of farmland, lakeviews with stops in Swanton, Kilkare St Park and St Albans Bay. 30 miles One could continue this ride all the way to Burlington as the coastal road follows the lake for 40 miles.  Easy

    2. The Farms of Franklin:  Ride to Morses Line (Canadian Border) Franklin and Lake Carmi (Lago di Carmi) 40 miles. Another spectacular road that rolls for miles and miles along lush farmland of the Vermont / Canadian border. A variety of loops and extensions are available from Franklin and Lake Carmi. Silo after Silo, glorious farm awaits you all the way to East Berkshire! This ride can be extended for miles! Intermediate

    3. Oh Canada: Bring your passport and enjoy this loop to Frelighsburg, Quebec. 50 miles. This ride has some amazing rollers through St Armand, Pigeon Hill and back around to Richford. Lovely architecture and homesteads. Check out the potter of Pigeon Hill and the Cafes in Frelighsburg. Intermediate to Challenging.  Intermediate to challenging

    4. The Island of Lake Champlain: 40-50 miles. This is the only ride where I recommend that you drive Alburg and then cycle South along delightful beautifully paved roads that follow the lake to North Hero, South Hero and Grand Isle. 

    9. Bike to Eat. Eat to Bike: Did I forget to mention the healthy, carbo abundant, delicious food? For three meals a day, The Tyler Place chefs prepare some of the most delicious, varied and healthy cuisine you will eat all year. Save room for local ice cream and home-made cookies and deserts.  PLUS for one week you can enjoy three meals without your kids asking you to get up and get them a glass of milk!  An immensely enjoyable feature of The Tyler Place is the adults-only policy for cocktails and dinner.  For three blessed hours you can bask in the company of other adults and hold grown-up conversations, unwind and relax knowing that your kids (as well as everyone else’s) have dined early and are off with their friends and counselors at a pool party, on a hayride or waterskiing at the lake. 

    10. Fellow guests as your cycling pals. Thy Tyler Place attracts a wide diversity of families but what most seem to have in common is their outgoing nature and absolute love of the area. While most of the cyclists use the Tyler Place bikes and attend the Tyler Place excursions, every year there’s a couple of guests who bring their bike.

    Of course with the writing of this blog, we hope that more cycling families and couples will discover what a perfect place this is to achieve what is impossible in normal life: Take long rides knowing the kids are happy and taken care of, indulge in leisurely, delicious meals and conversation with other adults and enjoy the facilities and activities of Tyler Place activities with your family during family time. Why not gather together your cycling pals and have a reunion at the Tyler Place; if you do email me or give me a call.  I might just join you!

    Birthday Bike Ride Along the Byways of Ipswich

    Tuesday, October 5th, 2010

    My favorite birthday present is (suprise) a glorious bike ride so when I was stumped on where to ride on my birthday I called my biking buddy and New England bike tour expert, Gordon Harris of NE Bicycle Adventures who willingly and enthusiastically offered to be my personal bike tour guide around Ipswich, MA, the place he has called home now for several years. It was a perfect late May day: bright sunshine and temperatures in the 70s. With camera, Cliff bar and camera in my pocket, I was stoked for a beautiful birthday ride and I know Gordon would not disappoint
    .

    Ipswich, 40 minutes East of Arlington, is a quintessential New England town with plenty of quiet roads that meander along the sea, state forests and apple orchards as well as through small towns with abundant period architecture—-in other words, the perfect ride that reminds me of the birthday rides I would take when I was a kid growing up in Southern, NH.

    After a welcome snack and intro to the ride at Gordon’s house, we started pedaling, first through the town of Ipswich which I learn has more 1600 & 1700 historic homes than anywhere in NE.  I adore gazing at architecture while I ride so having Gordon point out the various historic homes on our route was a real treat.  From the village of Ipswich we ride to Great Neck and Little Neck, two glacial drumlins left from the last ice age that offer views of Plum Island, the Atlantic and Cape Ann. 

    I mention coffee and Gordon loops the ride back to the village of Ipswich where we stop at Zumi’s cafe and I enjoy their special frozen drink and perfect biking pick-me-up: A coffee ice cream smoothie. Properly buzzed, Gordon leads us along the Ipswich Riverwalk Mural where residents star as characters in a delightful painting by Alan Pearsal that portrays the history of this remarkable little town.  Sweet NE Views, historic houses, coffee and now murals–Gordon is scoring big in my list of birthday treats.

    The second half of our Historic Ride is the farm and forest portion of our tour. We ride up Perkins Row passing stunning homes to one of my favorite escapes with the kids, the Ipswich River Wildlife Sanctuary that has delightful nature walks along ponds, rivers and marshes. Spottings of frogs, blue herons, turtles and birds are guaranteed.  For an area that is so close to Boston, these rural roads have the remoteness and beauty of Northern, Maine. We make our way to Bradley Palmer State Park, a 721-acre former estate features pine needled paths, acres of sunny rolling meadows and spectacular rhododendrons which line old carriage roads. Looking for an elegant, rural location for your next event? At the center of the patk is the Willowdale Estate, an Arts and Crafts mansion that has been rehabilitated in return for credit towards a long term lease through DCR’s Historic Curatorship Program.

    The end of my birthday bike ride is nearing as we approach Appleton Farms and I savor the views of rolling grasslands, grazing livestock, stone walls, and historic farm buildings and a pastoral landscape that is a rare glimpse into New England’s agricultural past.  A gift of Colonel Francis R. Appleton, Jr., and his wife Joan, Appleton Farms is one of the oldest continuously operating farms in the country, established and maintained by nine generations of the Appleton family. Here’s another great place to bring your family, friends or to enjoy some peace and quiet all by yourself

    Although in the past I had ridden fast through Ipswich to reach the beach or en route to Newburyport,  this more leisurely B-day tourist version, allowing for plenty of conversation, photography and discovery, was the perfect birthday present. Topping it off was riding with my dad and Gordon, who shares my idea of the perfect ride: blending miles, history and a jumbo frappuccino!

    Thanks Gordon! Ciclismo Classico is so lucky to have you as our official New England bike tour guide

    Enjoy the pictures from the ride!